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cold cuts and cheese

Mortadella and Parmigiano Reggiano on a Bologna food walk

What these two staples are, why their names are protected and what to look for when you taste them.

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Two staples

ProductWhat to know
MortadellaA large cooked salume of finely ground cured pork with at least 15 per cent small cubes of pork fat, traditionally flavoured with peppercorns
Mortadella BolognaHolds protected geographical indication status under EU law
Parmigiano ReggianoAn Italian hard, granular cow's-milk cheese aged at least 12 months
Where it is madeParma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, the part of Bologna west of the Reno and part of Mantua

What mortadella is

Mortadella is a large salume of finely hashed cured pork that includes at least 15 per cent small cubes of pork fat, mostly the hard fat from the neck of the pig. It is cooked, and traditionally flavoured with peppercorns.

Why the name matters

Mortadella Bologna is the best-known version worldwide and carries protected geographical indication status under EU law, which is why the label on a deli counter is worth reading.

Parmigiano Reggiano

This is a hard, granular cheese from cow's milk, aged at least twelve months and part of the grana family. It is named for Parma and Reggio Emilia, two of the places it is made.

A map of where it comes from

Parmigiano Reggiano is produced in Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, the part of Bologna west of the River Reno and the part of Mantua south of the Po, all of it in Emilia-Romagna apart from the Mantua share.

How to taste them

Take the mortadella slowly: the fat should melt and the pepper should sit at the back. With the Parmigiano, look for the granular texture and the savoury crunch of the aged cheese.

On the walk

Both come at the artisan shops after the tigella, with fresh bread and local wine. The Parmigiano is paired with a balsamic aged 25 years.

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